Birthday, Carnival and Caves

Another two weeks have passed us by and regrettably we are fast approaching the end of our time at IPBio. I guess the old adage, “time flies when you’re having fun” does indeed hold true because both Matt and I agree that it really does feel like we’ve only just arrived.

As the workweek ended we all geared up for Imran’s birthday weekend. The volunteers and the IPBio staff all met up for a few drinks in the early evening, and then we all made our way to an amazing fish restaurant. This restaurant was great for a few reasons. First, fish is hard to come by in Iporanga, and by hard to come by I mean, you just don’t find it. The locals don’t really have a taste for fish, and the ones that do either go to the fish restaurant or try their luck in the river. Second, the restaurant is located outside of the town in an area that we had never really ventured to, and it’s absolutely beautiful. Situated within a valley, surrounded by mountainous rainforest at all sides, with a pond directly to its rear (where they raise all their own fish) this is definitely one restaurant I’ll commit to memory. The food was delicious, the price cheap, and the quantity, never-ending. Post dinner we stuck around for a while to get a little more “energized” and to witness one of the more incredible lightshows I’ve ever seen. We’re talking lightning, and lots of it, in every direction dancing atop mountains from cloud to cloud. I even saw a comet burning up as it plummeted towards Earth. Overall, it was spectacular, and a great way to end dinner before heading back into town and calling it a night not too long afterwards.

Our next week at work was met with mixed feelings, as it was largely transitional. We had some volunteers leave and others arrive, and as a result the work we had been doing also shifted. Sadly, we will not be doing our usual hike in the jungle as often because the frog project has, for the time being, been put on hold. Mainly due to the fact that the breeding season is coming to an end, and consequently data collection becomes a lot more difficult as the animals become less active. Yet, one thing I have quickly come to realize is that there is always something to be done at IPBio and always fun to be had. We started to help design and build new terrariums for some of the lizards and frogs. We also helped with aquarium maintenance, feeding the turtles and the eels.

On the whole it was a very relaxing week, which was welcomed because with our weekend came the start of Carnival… and it was crazy.
Most of us probably have some kind of preconceived notion of what carnival in Brazil is all about: parades, music, plenty of dancing, plenty of drinking, and a shortage of clothing. Now having experienced carnival first hand I can say I have learned a few things. First, the stereotypes are, for the most part true, but only within the larger cities. One of the volunteers left to Rio for carnival and after he returned we had a chance to compare carnival experiences. Aside from looking absolutely awestruck – seriously I’m not sure exactly what he got up to but the smile on his face said everything – he was able to confirm that Carnival more or less conformed to what he expected with a lot more cross dressing. With that being said, the second thing I came to learn is that smaller towns tend to, as you may expect, add their own unique flare to carnival. Iporanga is no exception, and as a result we were treated to a rather unique carnival experience.

The holiday itself officially runs from Friday – Tuesday and each night the town square came to life in the form of a massive party. The whole village shows up and from 8pm – 5am men, women, and children of all ages do not stop celebrating for any reason. A rather hastily constructed stage housed DJ’s and live bands all through the night, and street vendors setup shop selling various homemade snacks, and beverages. One night I sampled some kind of radioactive-looking blue concoction. I have no idea what was in it, but can confirm it was both fantastic, and fantastically boozy.


Maybe I’m getting older, maybe wiser, hopefully both, probably just older, but the prospect of constantly partying Friday – Tuesday seemed daunting. To my relief I was not alone as we all agreed we should at least spend a day in nature doing something different. Turns out, different was misinterpreted for ambitious, because we embarked on what was probably our most difficult expedition yet, to Casa De Pedra.

Literally translating to “house in rock” Casa De Pedra is basically just that, a massive cave. In fact, it is the largest cave entrance in the world measuring 172 meters high, and impressive is an understatement. It’s a 5 km straight uphill hike to reach the behemoth, during which time you pass through all kinds of terrain. Swinging from vine to vine, we climbed, swam, jumped, and tumbled our way there. All the while accompanied by a local farmer’s dog, which we nicknamed Kendrick, keeping to our theme of pets named after rappers. We couldn’t believe his resilience and thought he would surely turn around at any moment, yet he kept on trekking with us. Midway there we got caught in a massive thunderstorm that made the terrain even harder to traverse. River levels had risen considerably and as we approached the cave it was clear Kendrick was too wet, cold and weak to cross the final obstacles. Fearing he would pass out from exhaustion I decided it was our responsibility to bring him home safely. I carried him across the final few rivers until we reached the mouth of the cave, which sheltered us all from the rainfall. We had lunch there and made sure to share with Kendrick, who was overjoyed. Overall, this lunch was a pretty surreal experience. There we were, sitting in the middle of the rainforest, not a soul around, in the largest cave opening in the world gazing out onto a misty valley of lush greenery. It was the kind of moment where you really feel connected to the Earth, one of those rare introspective moments. Fleeting, but special for that very reason. Then we all climbed down closer to the cave and took some wicked selfies.

Stay tuned for more updates!

Written by Morgane Holley, Swiss Photography Volunteer

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